Penn Mac’s

Walking into Penn Mac is a welcome sensory overload, especially from the aromas of cheeses and Italian delicacies floating in the air. But astute customers will also notice something else about the store as they walk around, while taking in the more than 5,000 specialty products available: an eclectic collection of artwork displayed throughout the sizable space, all collected by the Sunseri family, which has owned the iconic Strip District business for 122 years.

Pittsburgh sports memorabilia, maps of Sicily, paintings from well-known artists, framed photographs of Sunseri family ancestors, dishes, oil and vinegar containers from Italy, old-timey photos of Pittsburgh and the Pennsylvania Macaroni Company itself—these displayed images, objects, art pieces, and items of memorabilia tell the story of a family deeply rooted in both Pittsburgh and in Italy.

David Sunseri, president, is the unofficial curator of the gallery, some of which was already here when he started working in the business. Over the decades, he has thoughtfully added to the collection, either from his own extensive travels, from odds and ends he finds in recycling, or because of his admiration of certain artists—choosing pieces that speak to him, that seem to fit, that appear to be significant. And when he finds pieces that signify his family’s legacy, all the better.

However, David is not the only family member to have contributed to the gallery. “I can’t say any one of us is solely responsible for that mishmash of oil paintings, watercolors, acrylics, and photos,” he says.

And many pieces come with a story. For example, Sunseri pointed out a black-and-white photo of people waiting for RFK’s funeral procession, depicting the races standing together. “It was a period of segregation, so I thought it was significant,” he notes, adding that he bid on the photo in an auction and lost, but the woman who won the photo gifted it to him. The woman happened to have bought his grandparents’ home in Oakland. In turn, Sunseri donated the cost of the photo—$1,000—to the Pittsburgh Opera, which had held the auction as a fundraiser.

Visitors can deduce that sports are important to the family. One point of pride is a Roberto Clemente dedication wall, as Sunseri reveals that Clemente was his hero. Sunseri, a golfer, also maintains a golf-related section, including a photo of himself and some friends on a golf course with Arnold Palmer. He pointed out his brother Rick’s wall, which is replete with Pirates memorabilia.

Photos depicting family, some of which pre-date Sunseri’s time, keep a watchful eye on the cheese counter. For example, there’s a 1980 photo of Sunseri’s three uncles with former Pittsburgh Mayor Richard Caliguiri. An old grape crusher up on a shelf was also already at the store. Other pieces in this diverse collection include blue porcelain Beemster cows, representing the Dutch-style cheeses the store sells; clogs from Sunseri’s trip to Switzerland; a cowbell bought in Italy; a statue of the Hindu deity Vishnu; and bicycles from the Netherlands.

Sunseri believes that the art on display throughout the store can spark conversation. Sometimes customers even inquire about buying pieces, although they are not technically for sale. “Penn Mac is a destination for tourists, and when they come in and see all of this, it elevates their experience. I think Penn Mac is about quality of products and a pleasant shopping experience,” he says.

David Sunseri continues to add to the gallery when he comes across something that he feels will blend in, and would like the expansion of the display to become a family tradition. “My hope is that the Sunseri family’s next generation will continue that tradition, as the previous four generations have,” adds Sunseri.

Hilary Daninhirsch is an award-winning freelance writer who lives in the northern suburbs of Pittsburgh with her husband, two daughters, and two rescue dogs. She can be reached at hilarydaninhirsch.journoportfolio.com.